Prentice Hall

Fashion & Interior Design



Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design
Sylvia Rosen, Parsons School of Design and Drexel University

ISBN-10: 0130262439
ISBN-13: 9780130262431

Publisher: Prentice Hall
Copyright: 2005
Format: Cloth; 640 pp
Published: 02/03/2004

Suggested retail price: $84.80
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For courses in Fashion Design, Design and Merchandising, and Textile Design.

Written by a seasoned professional Fashion Designer, this comprehensive text/reference covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments, and gives students a firm foundation in the tools, concepts, and understanding necessary for success in this highly competitive industry. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopers (i.e., Pattern Blocks, Master Patterns, or Foundation Patterns), and on cutting and testing each completed pattern in tissue, pinned on the form completely marked. The exceptionally clear and visually detailed illustrations can easily be understood by students without having to read the accompanying text.

  • Detailed, step-by-step technical illustrations.
    • An excellent visual learning tool, especially critical for ESL and international students.

  • Lessons presented in sequential order of learning—All the patterns diagrammed are shown in the exact stages and sequence of development—from plot to completion—including all necessary markings, such as punch holes, notches, seams, and grain lines.
    • Enables students to easily learn, and review, the concepts for developing patterns, step-by-step.

  • Generic patterns—The patterns represent problems and style lines that can be applied to any garment currently in style, and are NOT meant to make a fashion statement. All have been classroom tested and the completed patterns have been pinned together in tissue and checked on the dress forms for accuracy, balance, and shape.
    • Allows student to learn style concepts and apply to numerous forms.

  • The pinning of all the patterns in tissue—To be checked for accuracy.
    • Enables students to see the completed 3-D design (pinned on form) and how it translates from the creation of the 2-D pattern made on the table.

  • Detailed illustrations and text on creating a set of Basic Slopers—The base from which all patterns can be developed with precision.
    • Ensures that students, many of whom will go into their own custom design business, will know how to make patterns for private customers.

  • Detailed visual and verbal information on sub-sloper development.
    • Helps students learn to use patterns interchangeably.

  • Detailed information on preparing and measuring the dress form.
    • Provides thorough coverage of this important area of study.



1. Introduction to Patterns and Patternmaking.

What Is a Pattern? What Is Patternmaking? How Are Patterns Used? Pattern Development. The Designer. History of Patterns and Patternmaking. Pattern and Design Terminology. Tools for Patternmaking. Supplies for Patternmaking. Basic Rules for Patterns. Preparing the Dress Form for Measurement. Different Forms for Different Functions.



2. Introduction to Slopers.

Front Measurements. Back Measurements. Skirt Measurements. Sleeve Measurements. Measurements for Pants. Measurements for Pants: Crotch. Style Lines for Pants. Measurements and Style Lines for Skirts. Drafting Basic Slopers from Measurements. Basic One-Piece Straight Sleeve Draft. Walking the Sleeve Around the Armhole. Adding Ease to Slopers. Basic Length Pants. Completing Patterns and Slopers.



3. Slopers and Sub-Slopers.

1/4 Scale Slopers. 1/2 Scale Slopers and Sub-Slopers.



4. Introduction to Dart Manipulation.

Basic Bodice. Bodices: Tucks. Bodice: Gathers and More. Bodice: Necklines.



5. Necklines and Collars.

Neck Facings. Collars.



6. Short Sleeves.

Short Sleeves (4" Below Biceps). Short Sleeves with Raised and Gathered Caps. Short Petal Sleeves (One and Two Piece).



7. Skirts.

Basic A-Line (Flared) Skirt. Circle Skirts. Godet Skirts. Six-Gore Skirts.



8. Bodice and Sleeve Pattern.

Revere Bodice with Three-Dart Short Sleeve. Short Kimono Sleeve.



9. Sleeve/Bodice Combinations.

Raglan Sleeves. Fitted Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Deep Armhole Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Kimono Sleeves with Gusset. Kimono/Dolman Sleeve Variations. Batwing Sleeves.



10. Shirts.

Shirt and Shirttail Hem. Action Sleeve with Roll-Up Cuff. Deep Armhole Raglan. Basic Raglan Shirt Sleeve and Variation.



11. Collars.

Shirt Collar. Bow Tie Collar. Turtleneck Collar.



12. Sleeves.

Long Straight Sleeve to One-Dart Shaped Sleeve. Set-In Sleeves.



13. Skirts.

Skirt Shapes. Skirt Styles and Patterns.



14. Capes and Hoods.

Capes. Hoods.



15. Torso Slopers.

Torso Slopers. Patterns for Torso Slopers.



16. Garment Details.

Buttons and Buttonholes. Seam, Hem, and Sewing Stitches. Snaps and Zippers.



17. Figure Analysis.

Body Shapes. Basic Silhouettes and Shapes Used for Apparel Designs.



18. The Fashion Industry.

Fashion Personnel. Color. The Manufacturing Process. Flats and Specs.



Appendices.


Index.

Sylvia Rosen has 35 years of industry experience as a Designer, Design Director, and Merchandiser, working and commuting to New York from her native Philadelphia. She was employed by industry leaders including Jordache, Members Only, John Henry, Haggar, Devon Apparel, and Andover Togs; traveling to the Orient for many years, working with buyers from major chains and stores. Ms. Rosen ran her own company in New York, where she designed and manufactured an upscale collection of girls' pre-teen, jr. dresses and sportswear. These sold to better department and specialty stores and boutiques. Simultaneously, Ms. Rosen has for 28 years been an instructor at Parsons School of Design in New York, where she currently continues to teach fashion design students. She is also an Adjunct Associate Professor in Design and Merchandising at Drexel University, Philadelphia, and a freelance consultant and technical designer in New York.

This text covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments, and gives students a firm foundation in the tools, concepts, and understandings necessary for success in this highly competitive industry. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopers (i.e., Pattern Blocks, Master Patterns, or Foundation Patterns), and on cutting and testing each completed pattern in tissue, pinned on the form completely marked. This enables the student to learn, and review, the concepts for developing patterns, step-by-step and see the translation of style lines from a two-dimensional flat pattern on the table, to a three-dimensional pattern on a mannequin (fitting dummy). This text is an excellent visual learning tool, especially critical to the vast number of ESL and International students attending design schools.

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